The Cheongsam Industry in Hong Kong

History, Development, and Challenges

Overview

The history of the development of the cheongsam, or qipao, in Hong Kong can be traced back to the early 20th century.

Originally, the cheongsam was a traditional Chinese dress worn by women in the late Qing Dynasty.

However, as it made its way to Hong Kong, the cheongsam underwent significant transformations and became an iconic symbol of the city’s distinctive cultural fusion.

Today, the cheongsam encounters challenges as Western fashion trends dominate the scene.

However, cheongsam tailors in Hong Kong continue to find the best solutions for its revival and preservation.

Hi, I am the guide of your journey!
Carmen

Four Periods

Budding Period

Let’s open the album of history!
Carmen

During the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women wore loose and straight-cut robes that were long enough to cover their feet.

The garments were adorned with intricate decorative patterns and designs.

In the same period, Han women wore loose and elongated upper garments, paired with embroidered skirts or pants, particularly showcasing their small binding feet.
Over the course of 300 years, the clothing of the two ethnic groups borrowed from each other.

The upper garments of Han women gradually became longer, resembling the robes of the Manchu people. Conversely, the Manchu robes shortened, exposing the feet, similar to the fashion of Han women.

After the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty, the hierarchical system of clothing and attire collapsed. In the early years of the Republic of China, an increasing number of women began attending schools and gaining education, which led to the strengthening of their self-awareness.

Among female students, a popular dress style emerged known as the “civilized new attire.”

These women wore tailored long-sleeved blouse paired with skirts that exposed their ankles, emphasizing the image of intellectualism.

In addition, new women embraced the liberty by wearing the new-style long gown in their daily life.

This garment is based on the Manchu robes, but with a tighter fit, shorter sleeves that reach the elbows, and a skirt length that falls to the lower leg.

This is the prototype of the modern Cheongsam.

Transitional Period

Let’s trace the evolution of the cheongsam together!
Carmen

1911 Revolution

After the revolution, the traditional attire of the Qing Dynasty was seen as a symbol of backwardness. Increasingly, women began wearing the new-style long gown to reflect their progressive thinking. This trend first emerged in Beijing and Shanghai before spreading southward to Guangzhou.

Although Hong Kong was under British occupation at the time, its residents maintained close ties with their counterparts in Guangdong. As a result, Hong Kong’s fashion culture closely followed the trends of major cities on the mainland.

Sino-Japanese War

With the full-scale outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937, Japan gained control of Shanghai and Guangzhou. Many tailors from these cities sought refuge in Hong Kong.

The influx of talent into Hong Kong significantly elevated the craftsmanship of local cheongsam production, promoting its development in the city.

New Culture Movement & May Fourth Movement

During the New Culture Movement, more intellectuals advocated for women’s liberation and encouraged them to abandon the traditional, intricate garments in favor of simpler and more convenient clothing.

Female students wearing male-style robes in the parades of the May Fourth Movement to demonstrate gender equality.

Civil War

Amid the turbulence of the Civil War, numerous affluent families from Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces migrated to Hong Kong in the late 1940s.

Many Shanghai tailors followed them to continue their cheongsam work in Hong Kong, establishing businesses and passing down their skills to apprentices while attracting local customers.

Shanghai-style cheongsam

Subsequently, the long gown underwent continuous modifications, with sleeves and hemlines narrowing to better accentuate the curves of the female body. These new cheongsam styles were eagerly imitated by tailors in Shanghai, leading to the birth of the “Shanghai-style cheongsam.”

In 1929, the Republic of China government promulgated regulations on attire, designating the cheongsam as one of the two official dresses for women, thus solidifying its position in Chinese women’s fashion.

Immigrant Tailors in Hong Kong

The immigrant artisans possessed exceptional craftsmanship and aesthetic abilities, and their familiarity with fabric characteristics ensured that customers looked elegant and comfortable in their cheongsam.

They actively recruited apprentices in Hong Kong, infusing the cheongsam market with new talent. This not only raised the craftsmanship of Hong Kong’s cheongsam but also fostered the sustainable development of the cheongsam industry in the city.

Golden Period

The Golden Era has left behind numerous captivating documentary clips that we can enjoy together!
Carmen

Since the 1950s, an increasing number of Hong Kong women started participating in the workforce.

Chinese professional women in Hong Kong wore cheongsam to express their cultural identity and embrace classical beauty.

The cheongsam became a common attire during this era.

This video clip captures the street scenes of 1960s Hong Kong, where we can observe numerous women wearing cheongsams amidst the bustling crowds.

In addition to being a popular daily attire, the cheongsam also led the fashion frontier of that era.

Various styles and patterns of cheongsam competed for attention on fashion runways, representing the highest aesthetic standards of the time.

This video clip showcases the work of cheongsam artisans in 1950s Hong Kong and captures the moment when fashion models showcased cheongsam on the runway.

In the 1970s, beauty pageants in Hong Kong were in full swing, with the most famous one being the Miss Hong Kong pageant.

The cheongsam showcase was a common segment in Hong Kong beauty pageants. During the Miss Hong Kong pageant award ceremony, all contestants would don cheongsams while awaiting the announcement of the rankings.

This video captures the winning moments of Miss Hong Kong champions from 1973 to 2018.

The mid to late 20th century was also the pinnacle of Hong Kong cinema. These films captured the fashion trends of the era, such as Modern ‘Red Chamber Dream’ and Star of Hong Kong.

Among them, Maggie Cheung’s cheongsam outfits in the film In the Mood for Love left a profound impression on audiences.

This video features a selection of cheongsams worn by the female lead in the film In the Mood for Love.

Challenging Period

Let’s talk with the cheongsam maker in Hong Kong!
Carmen

In this interview, a cheongsam tailor shed light on the challenges hindering the development of cheongsam in Hong Kong. These challenges encompass escalating operating costs, including rising rental fees and material expenses. Additionally, there is a shortage of skilled artisans, leading to concerns regarding the preservation and continuation of this traditional craft. The delicate nature of the master-apprentice relationship also poses complexities in maintaining and passing down the craftsmanship.

Despite the aforementioned challenges, there is positive news for the cheongsam industry in Hong Kong. The Hong Kong government has taken significant steps to safeguard and promote the cultural heritage of cheongsam by officially recognizing it as an intangible cultural asset.

The government also encouraged young individuals with an interest in cheongsam production to learn from experienced masters to address the current shortage of skilled practitioners and ensure the continuity of cheongsam craftsmanship.

With the implementation of these beneficial policies, the outlook for the cheongsam industry in Hong Kong appears promising.

Quiz Game

In the end, let’s take a short quiz to test your knowledge of cheongsam!
Carmen