The debate over dim sum:
Frozen or fresh?
 

By Valerie Jiang & Selina Su
HKU Journalism and Media Studies Centre

HONG KONG – Dim sum, with its over 100 varieties of small-plate foods, is a culinary tradition steeped in history and culture. Served in bamboo steamers, or on small porcelain plates, these steamed, deep-fried, or pan-fried dishes bring family and friends together around round tables under the glow of crystal chandeliers, where each bite holds a story.

However, the fast-paced modern lifestyle brings a new player to the table – frozen dim sum, which raises the question of whether convenience and affordability options can replace quality and culture.

This shift is reflective of a broader change in society, where the demand for quick and easy meals often overshadows the value of tradition. For younger diners, the popularity of easy-to-serve frozen foods is replacing the experience of yum cha, the Cantonese tradition of leisurely eating dim sum dishes while drinking tea in tea houses. For older generations, many fear the essence of yum cha culture – the stories shared with tea and dishes, the communal experience, and the craftsmanship of handmade dim sum dishes – may fade away. 

Frozen market
Unpack it, put it in the microwave, and “ding!” In less than 5 minutes, dim sum, once only available in tea houses, can now be found on every family’s table. The production and distribution of frozen dishes has made it possible for dim sum, once the exclusive food of teahouses, to become a popular choice for filling up when hungry in a fast-paced life.

Frozen dim sum brands target young consumers who face a fast-paced lifestyle and high work pressure. These affordable and convenient products appeal to young people looking for easy meal options to fit their busy lifestyle.

“I am a faithful consumer of frozen dim sum,” said Sam Ye, a 25-year-old administrative staff at Shenzhen Technology University, who needs to arrive at the office by 8:30 a.m. daily. He said frozen dim sum saves him from having to wake up earlier or going to work on an empty stomach; all he has to do is bring it to work and steam it for five minutes.

Ye is not the only person who prefers the frozen section of supermarkets over tea houses. China’s frozen food market has been steadily expanding in recent years, growing 9.5 per cent in 2022 from the previous year and reaching 168.85 billion yuan (USD$23.32 billion), according to iiMedia Research, which specialises in consumer and market research.

These preferences make people like Ye a crucial part of the consumer base for frozen dim sum. Young people between 19 and 35 years old have emerged as the primary consumers in the national product market, accounting for over 60% of the consumer base, according to iiMedia Research.

The low price and convenience of frozen dim sum cater to the consumption needs of young consumers, making frozen dim sum their preference. 

 

“With a full-time job and financial pressure, it is too luxurious to spend hours dining in the tea house with family,” Ye said., “I would rather have a good sleep and eat some easy food.” 

The COVID-19 pandemic has also accelerated development of the frozen dim sum industry. 

During the pandemic, frozen dim sum became a life-saver in the refrigerator because of prolonged Covid-19 pandemic lockdowns that kept people from leaving their home. Many people like Ye bought frozen dim sum for the first time during the pandemic and found that it tasted better than expected. The average sales of frozen food on Tmall, China’s largest e-commerce platform, increased more than fourfold from February to November 2020 compared to the previous year, according to a report from The Paper, a Chinese digital newspaper.

Market shift
In 1990, frozen food was just starting to take off in China, with unprocessed or simply processed frozen meat products dominating the market. In 2000, Amoy Cosmos Foods Limited, one of Hong Kong’s major food manufacturers, launched the first heated and ready-to-eat “Ding Ding Sausage Noodles,” bringing a breakthrough in frozen food.

After 2000, different brands introduced frozen dim sum. In 2009, Wellcome, a mainstream supermarket in Hong Kong, launched its frozen dim sum brand, Yu Pin King, which became the main frozen dim sum sold in shops. Nowadays, the freezer cabinets in Wellcome are stocked with frozen products of nearly 10 brands, selling beef balls, oyster sauce bean curd sheet rolls, fish shao mai, and many other traditional dim sum dishes.

“Frozen dim sum allows urban consumers to get more diversified dishes within a certain budget, and at the same time allows urban consumers to spend their scarce time in other areas,” said Zhao Yao, an associate professor of business administration at Zhongnan University of Economics and Law in Wuhan, China. “It’s part of the urbanisation process.”

Many teahouses, which originally operated only in-restaurant dining, have added a frozen dim sum business to sell in their restaurants or on e-commerce platforms.

Guangzhou Restaurant, the largest tea house in Guangzhou, revealed that its 2022 revenue from frozen food increased by 24.75% compared to the previous year. The revenue growth rate of frozen food surpassed the restaurant business, which rose 5.14%. In its 2023 report, Guangzhou Restaurant said it will focus on research and development to introduce a variety of new products, including visually appealing dumplings, pan-fried dumplings with bone broth, and other new frozen dim sum.

As businesses continue to innovate and expand their range of frozen dim sum offerings to meet consumers’ demand, the question arises:
Can frozen dim sum truly replace tea houses’ freshly-made dishes?
Taste test
To compare the quality of the freshly-made and frozen dim sum, HKU Journalism conducted a taste test with four diners – Ye and three Hong Kong locals, Christine Cheung, Sammi Siu, and Barley Yeung. The four came from diverse backgrounds and all had eaten handmade dim sum in tea houses and frozen products at home. 
Four interviewees, Sam Ye, Christine Cheung, Sammi Siu and Barley Yeung, from left to right, attended the tasting test in Hong Kong, Sunday, Apr. 21, 2024. (Photo/Valerie Jiang)
HKU Journalism gathered the four tasters on a Sunday in April and offered them four kinds of shrimp dumplings presented in the same-looking containers. The first kind was brought in a famous tea house named Heyday Cuisine, rated 4 out of 5 on Openrice, the Hong Kong version of Yelp. It’s said that Heyday Cuisine makes all its dishes by hand every morning. The second and third samples were bought in two supermarkets, Wellcome and ParknShop. They were frozen shrimp dumplings produced by two companies, Amoy and Doll Dim Sum, respectively. The last shrimp dumping sample came from another tea house with a good reputation, Fortune Garden, rated 4 out of 5 on Openrice. Fortune Garden also claims all its dishes are handmade.
For most of our invited tasters, the difference between the frozen shrimp dumplings and freshly-made ones was quite noticeable. Three out of the four could tell which two samples were frozen products and which two were freshly-made. Ye, the Shenzhen resident who said he bought frozen dim sum frequently, was the only one who could not tell the difference between the four samples.
Dessert Chef
Born and grew up in Hong Kong SAR, graduating from Le Cordon Bleu
Christine Cheung

Cheung, a 53-year-old Hong Kong dessert chef, correctly pointed out which two were frozen and which two were made fresh. She also explained the difference between frozen and freshly-made products, making use of her culinary education at Le Cordon Bleu and past experience crafting traditional dim sum and Western desserts. 

Cheung pointed to the pleats on sample B, the frozen shrimp dumplings made by Amoy, and said: “The frozen dumpling’s skin is thick and not elastic. You can find the pleats made by machine with the same distance and width.” She also pointed out that the shrimp inside the frozen dumplings were much smaller than the handmade ones.

The presence of lard was another difference between the two samples. “You can taste the lard in the freshly-made dim sum,” Cheung added, “Many people don’t know that lard is an important ingredient in shrimp dumplings, bringing layers of flavour and balance to the overall taste.” She said frozen dim-sum often omits this little-known ingredient to cut costs.

Siu, a 44-year-old project coordinator in the carpet industry who has lived in Hong Kong her whole life, preferred the first dumpling from Heyday Cuisine and disliked the second sample from Amoy. “The shrimps in the first one were so plump and fresh, completely different from the second one,” she said. Yeung, a 40-year-old who grew up in Britain and now works as a public relations specialist in Hong Kong, echoed Siu’s preference.
After obtaining reviews from all the tasters, HKU Journalism informed them of the price of each sample. All four tasters were surprised by the affordability of the frozen products. Doll Dim Sum offers each frozen shrimp dumpling for less than HKD$3, whereas Heyday Cuisine charges nearly HKD$12 per dumpling.

“If it’s that cheap, I forgive it for not being as good as the freshly-made ones,” Ye said.

Still, Siu and Cheung insisted on choosing freshly-made dim sum even if it cost more.

“It’s not just about the cost,” Cheung said. 

Cultural significance
Whether or not they enjoyed going out for dim sum, everyone had deep memories of yum cha and memorable experiences to share.

Cheung fondly recalled her childhood experiences with sesame rolls, a dish made from black sesame, rock sugar, and water chestnut powder, steamed and then rolled up.

“When I was a kid, I often laid it flat on the plate and sucked it up from one end. The adults were too busy eating to yell at me,” she said with a smile.
Cheung recalled that in the past, restaurants did not use paper menus; instead, they had staff bring a trolley full of dim sum and push it from the kitchen to each guest, shouting out what they got. For her, it was a memorable way of ordering food. “A bunch of us kids would stand in front of the trolley and pick dishes out, which felt like an awesome responsibility!” Cheung said.

Siu was less impressed by selecting dishes and drinking tea when she was a child. She grew up in a traditional Cantonese family where yum cha with older relatives used to be a regular routine on Sundays. It often felt like a bit of a chore because it “always took a long time and burned me out,” she said. “You know, they will talk for hours!”

But she feels differently nowadays. “Now, at 44 years old, I often go out for dim sum with my friends and family members to spend a couple of hours relaxing, to share details of our lives,” Siu said. She’s concerned that frozen dim sum is now emerging as the clear favourite among younger Chinese. While the convenience of frozen food is undeniable, she thinks they’ll miss out on the larger point of what dim sum is all about.

“Regardless of the development of frozen treats, there is no way to freeze the bond between people,” Siu said. 

Credit

Story writing: Valerie and Selina

Elements designer: Valerie

Website builder: Selina

Special thanks to advisors: Cezary Podkul, Sui Cindy Kwan and Foon Lee