Neon lights are one of the first images that pop up when one thinks of Hong Kong. They were once a prominent landmark in this international metropolis, bearing witness to its resilience through various hardships while also symbolizing its vibrant resurgence.
Since the 1920s, neon lights have been an integral part of Hong Kong’s urban landscape. As night falls, people traverse the city’s streets and alleys, illuminated by the colorful neon lights, injecting vitality and dynamism into the city. However, a tragic accident in 2008, in which a falling neon sign fatally struck a pedestrian, prompted more attention from the Hong Kong government, leading to the gradual decline of Hong Kong’s neon era spanning nearly 90 years.
With the Hong Kong government incorporating provisions of Section 24 of the Buildings Ordinance into urban planning and governance strategies, the Buildings Department conducts annual “targeted street mega operations” on busy street sections with numerous sign violations and implements a “sign inspection scheme” targeting neon signs that may pose risks to the public.
That began the gradual decline of neon signs in Hong Kong.
The neon-themed Hong Kong film “A Light Never Goes Out,” funded by the Film Development Fund, premiered in 2023 and is one of the few chances to see what Hong Kong used to look like.
The film director Anastasia Tsang joked on set: “Our camera is like the ‘Death Note’ from the Japanese anime Death Note.” It captured neon signs that seemed destined to disappear. What was initially thought to be a joke, has now become a reality.
Fortunately, there is a group of young neon enthusiasts in Hong Kong under the guidance of seasoned neon masters, setting out on a journey to preserve the art of neon sign making in Hong Kong. Artist Jive Law is one of them.
Let’s follow Jive’s pace to uncover the stories behind the current plight of neon signs in Hong Kong.
On the bustling streets of Hong Kong, neon signs, with their intricate forms and rich cultural history, form the city’s nocturnal landscape. Each signboard is closely adjacent, varied in shape, and adorned with different text and graphic elements, allowing people to not only appreciate but also feel the unique charm of the city.
However, the government’s regulation of neon sign boards is becoming more stringent. Over a decade ago, the government introduced an assessment system to ensure the safety of neon signboards, identifying which signboards hold historical significance and require preservation, and which ones require reinforcement to enhance security. This measure has balanced the relationship between urban development and cultural heritage to some extent.
Now, the government has issued a new regulation that permits the retention of all neon signboards of specified sizes. It undoubtedly provides more opportunities and possibilities for merchants who want to retain their signboards.
Now, please click on the above interview video!
Jive is firing the glass tube, Monday, Apr. 15, 2024. (Photo/Jive Law)
Jive’s neon craftwork, Sunday, Dec. 28, 2023. (Photo/Jive Law)
According to the latest statistics from the Buildings Department, the number of signboards shed or repaired by the government increased from 2,745 in 2018 to 3,980 in 2022.
Sham Shui Po, Yau Ma Tei, Tsim Sha Tsui, and Mong Kok are the districts that saw the most signboard removals. Hong Kong has inspected a total of 19,002 legal or high-safety-factor signboards as of May 2023, which includes 3,001 cantilevered signboards, 15,847 wall-mounted signboards, and 154 roof signboards.
Please refer to the total statistics on the number of signboards shed or repaired by the Buildings Department, as any specific statistic about neon lights has not been published.
Everything will fade away at some point. In fact, the neon light is the same and is gradually being replaced by LED lights.
Hong Kong neon master Wu Chikai says: “Nowadays, neon signs are slowly becoming an indoor craft, placed in stores or homes to create a cosy atmosphere.”
Master Wu explained that he had few orders in the past two years because of the COVID-19 pandemic’s impact and had to repurpose old neon signs into handmade crafts to promote on social media. He updated one piece, a 3D “head with glasses” from over 30 years ago, with a mask to symbolize positively facing pandemic-related challenges.
As neon sign usage evolves, “aesthetic appeal” has become a key factor for older masters. The preservation and transmission of this craft can only occur when apprentices or consumers recognize the beauty of neon sign designs.
Additionally, Master Wu shared that neon sign production used to be a continuous process, requiring him to hire apprentices to help with orders after they learned the craft. Now, he can handle the workload alone. If young people want to learn from him, they have to pay for lessons.
In Hong Kong, the aforementioned apprenticeship system was the main method of passing down the neon light crafts. However, this teaching method has revealed its limitations in modern society.
“Due to the complexity of neon light craftsmanship and the lengthy learning period, many young people lack the patience and time to delve deep into learning,” said Brian Kwok, Associate Professor at the School of Design, Hong Kong Polytechnic University.
To address this challenge, some local cultural organizations have begun collaborating with master neon light craftsmen to offer short-term courses for young people. These courses aim to spark young people’s interest in neon light art and provide them with opportunities to engage with and learn the craft. However, due to time constraints, these courses often only provide young people with a basic understanding of neon light production, making it difficult to achieve mastery.
Mr. Kwok notes that inheriting the art of neon lights is not easy; it requires young people to acquire a full set of tools and chemical knowledge in advance. Furthermore, due to the complexity and specificity of neon light craftsmanship, they may encounter various obstacles and challenges during the learning process.
Nowadays, Hong Kong still has no more than five masters of neon light production. With the popularity of emerging light sources such as LED, the demand for neon lights in the market has sharply declined, making it difficult for neon light masters to sustain their livelihood solely through their craft. In order to survive, some neon light masters have had to switch professions.
The glow of neon lights is more than just a city highlight; it is also a convergence point for artistic creation and the lives of its citizens. Neon light illustrators transform these lights into creative artworks, documenting this vibrant history and preserving the neon memories of childhood for the citizens.
“Back to the 80s and 90s”
From the start of the 1980s, Hong Kong’s entertainment scene was vibrant, with various shops and entertainment venues lining the streets. These businesses used neon lights as a means of promotion to attract the attention of countless citizens. Hong Kong resident Molly Lee reminisced that during that time, neon lights were not just tools for businesses to attract customers but also symbols of the city’s economic prosperity.
However, as skyscrapers rose one after another, Lee lamented that the familiar street scenes became increasingly unfamiliar, and the neon lights that accompanied her growth seemed to disappear overnight without a trace.
For young people, neon lights have become ancient artefacts they can only see in photos and movies. They may have seen old pictures on websites, but it’s challenging for them to understand the special significance of neon lights to the older generation of Hong Kong people.
Lee believes that although young people have not witnessed the glorious era of neon lights firsthand, they are exploring and inheriting Hong Kong culture in their own way. They may not have a deep emotional connection to neon lights, but they are embracing and appreciating the city’s multiculturalism with a more open mindset.
To preserve these memories, Molly participates in activities related to Hong Kong’s neon culture and history, such as the “Vital Signs” exhibition held at the Tai Kwun last June. She hopes to encourage more people to join the efforts to preserve neon culture and understand its importance in Hong Kong’s urban culture.
Credits
Advisor Foon Lee
Multimedia Producer Liu Yuyan & Guan Huangshenyi
Copy Editor Guan Huangshenyi
Special thanks Wu Chi Kai, Jive Lau, Brian Kwok, Zhang Jiahua, Xu Sherry, Molly Lee, Yuan Mona